Fishing with Grandma

We're never quite sure about our legacies-what we leave behind for our kids and grandkids. At the time, the amount of Grandma's inheritance would not have seemed to be enough to create more than a tiny ripple in the pool of life. Wrong! While Grandma would no doubt have been displeased at how her money was being squandered, the introduction of Blackfish Lodge into our family lore has, so far, affected and delighted at least three generations.

Fishing with Grandma

We're never quite sure about our legacies-what we leave behind for our kids and grandkids. At the time, the amount of Grandma's inheritance would not have seemed to be enough to create more than a tiny ripple in the pool of life. Wrong! While Grandma would no doubt have been displeased at how her money was being squandered, the introduction of Blackfish Lodge into our family lore has, so far, affected and delighted at least three generations.

Fishing lodges are interesting places. Some have reputations as male enclaves; others are so luxurious as to defy our traditional image of a "fishing lodge". What they all have in common is that they represent a gathering place for people of all ages who enjoy fishing and camaraderie. Most are located in scenic surroundings, giving credence to the notion that both fish and fishing lodges often live in the loveliest of places.

Grandma's gift had made a lifelong fantasy possible, so I had asked a few people to recommend a wilderness fishing lodge where I was sure to catch king salmon. Try Blackfish Lodge, they said-as close to a sure thing as there is in fishing. A scenic seaplane flight up the inside passage between Canada's Vancouver Island and the mainland coast of British Columbia brought me to Blackfish Lodge-a place unlike any other I'd ever seen. Since Grandma's shoes had rarely touched anything but concrete, by her standards I was now in a different world. Now, my shoes were standing on the deck of a small floating lodge, truly miles from nowhere. I felt like a time traveler who'd been suddenly deposited in a new dimension.

And, what a different world...draped in quiet shades of green, blue and gray. Framed by the mountains to the east and west, and punctuated by numerous islands, inlets and steep-walled fjords, the area is remote and spectacular. The smell of salt air joins with cedar to create an invigorating scent-aromatherapy at its best! Eagles and ravens soar and dart along with the multitude of seabirds. The peace and stillness are stunning. Looking out of the lodge's many windows, all you see are fir, pine, cedar, and the ever-changing waters of Cramer Passage. My mid-western city Grandma would, no doubt, have been terrified.

"There he is!"..it's an exclamation I would come to know well in the coming days. But at this particular moment, I had been startled from a sun-warmed nap and was completely bewildered. My slightly sleep-dazed brain was searching around the boat for the mysterious visitor who'd prompted my guide's outburst. In the next millisecond, I realized that the "he" was what I'd traveled all this way for---a king salmon come a-calling. I lunged for the fishing rod---by now doubled over and bouncing up and down furiously, reel screaming---as the fish took off on a tremendous run. Some 45 minutes later, with great coaching from the guide and some very tired arms, a gorgeous 40-pound king (a.k.a. "chinook", or "spring") salmon was in the net.

Around the fireplace the prior evening, we'd discussed the variety of angling opportunities available in the surrounding area. Five species of Pacific salmon, at one time or another, come through the bottleneck between Vancouver Island and the mainland. The location for Blackfish Lodge was chosen to take advantage of this happy accident of geography.

In addition to saltwater fishing, the area boasts myriad streams-some small along with a few larger rivers--- that are home to the wily and sought-after steelhead, native cutthroat trout, dolly varden char, and salmon (as they come in to spawn). There are also a number of lakes on nearby Gilford Island, the largest in the archipelago. Fly-fishermen and spincasters have equal success. It is an extraordinary event to see another angler. In short, it's fisherman's dream.

A day of summer salmon fishing starts with a 4 AM knock on the door of our comfortable private room. As we motor out to the day's fishing spot, Chris (our guide) explains that "fishing here is like being in the middle of a non-stop National Geographic show". Dolphins, porpoise, seals, sea lions, eagles, and bears are just some of the wildlife species routinely seen over the course of a day. And then there are the Orcas (killer whales)---attracted by the abundant salmon. Hardly a summer day goes by when guests out fishing don't spot these magnificent creatures.

Trolling these protected waters for salmon can be, for the most part, very meditative----long waits punctuated by interludes of sheer pandemonium. I learn to go from relaxed vigilance (and perhaps the occasional nod-off) to an instantaneous, but not very artful, grab at the rod. Listen to your guide, and you'll land the majority of the fish that hit.

A few days later, freshwater fishing was on the agenda. After a scenic boat ride we docked at the mouth of the very remote Wakeman River. We piled into a waiting truck along with rafts and gear and drove to a spot on a small tributary of the Wakeman. It is simply stunning. Crystal clear deep green water and complete solitude greet us. Drifting gently downstream in our raft, we stopped at various spots to try our luck. In a short while the tributary met the main Wakeman River. The sights, sounds, and smells of this wild river are food for the soul.

The previous evening, I'd had a fly-tying lesson in preparation for my first fly-fishing experience. Once at the main river, I got some basic fly-casting tutoring and, remarkably enough, actually hooked some trout with my inexpertly tied bug replicas! As anyone who's learned this art knows, it can get very frustrating and, despite a very patient teacher, I unkindly retired the fly rod and picked up a spinning rod. Using lures, I hooked both trout and silver salmon. The silvers run to 15+ pounds and are holy terrors. We had some amazing fishing on both the Wakeman River and other small streams that run throughout the area.

The realm around the lodge provides some great non-fishing diversions. The nearby small settlement of Echo Bay boasts an art gallery and Billy's Museum-a fascinating collection of, local guru, Bill Proctor's "treasures" (some might call it junk!). First Nations peoples have a rich and visible history. The lodge also has a one and two-man kayak available for guests' use.

The lodge hosts guests from all over the world. The owners' goal is for guests to be relaxed and comfortable, get away from their normal routines, and enjoy a quality experience. Blackfish Lodge's fishing guide-to-guest ratio is two guests per each guide and boat. Fishing time is very generous, reflecting their love of the sport. Meals are excellent, verging on gourmet. And, you don't have to be an expert to have a great time and catch lots of fish (I'm living proof of that!).

Blackfish Lodge's small size and comfortable family feeling makes it a great destination for families or small groups of friends or business associates. A good number of the lodge's guests are parents, grandparents, kids, couples, or siblings who are sharing a living gift of both time away and time together with loved ones.

Since my first visit, several generations of my family have visited the lodge---mom, wife, daughters, and nephew. In addition, I've introduced a number of friends to Blackfish Lodge. Many fish have been caught and guests have been fascinated by the proprietors' solitary and frontier-like lifestyle. Both the human and non-human denizens of the region have charmed each visitor. The lodge is now familiar, but every visit reveals a different facet-sometimes significant, sometimes small-of the experience. No doubt our stern Grandma looks on disapprovingly, but her unintended legacy has enriched the lives of many. Thanks, Grandma.

Blackfish Lodge can be reached with via direct, scheduled floatplane service from Campbell River B.C (via Vancouver) or from Seattle, Washington. Contact them by phone at (206) 789-1224 or by email at info@blackfishlodge.com. They've got a great website at www.blackfishlodge.com.